Many irisarians have never given their favorite flower a chance to mingle with unrelated species of plants. For most of them, an iris is an only child. Most irisarians prefer it that way.
As you know, a first child, upon the arrival of a new brother or sister, may sulk for awhile, but after the arrival of maybe the third or fourth, it is an accepted fact that sharing will have to take place. After the additions of a few biennials or perennials, the iris really will not mind. The point I wish to make -- why not share a part of your garden with other flowers?
In any garden where irises are well grown, they are just naturally going to be "standouts". There are quite a number of flowers that bloom at exactly the same time as the iris, and the proximity of other flowers of different form and texture actually enhances an iris planting. I have the feeling that the irisarian might also get carried away and continue with an integrated garden.
BIENNIALS
An often-neglected group of plants, and ones that can be grown easily and successfully from seed at very little expense, are the biennials. These seeds MUST be planted in late summer or early fall if they are to bloom the following spring -- and at iris time.
SWEET ROCKET (Hesperia Matronalis): This is the fragrant lavender one that grows from 30 to 36 inches tall, and is ideal for background plantings. Flowers are similar to phlox. Bloom begins at almost the same time as the early iris begins to open, and extends weeks beyond. Plant in full sun or partial shade. Sow seed in July, August, or early September only. If it does not rain, keep seeded area moist until seedlings appear, which is usually by late September. In planting any biennial seed, I work up the area to be seeded ahead of time, and have the soil loose and friable. Seed is scattered on top of the ground, and watered well immediately. After that, the areas is never allowed to dry out, and in a few weeks the tiny seedlings will appear and stay green all winter. They will not freeze out if kept moist.
SWEET WILLIAM: These should be planted in late summer or early fall. Plants should have full sunlight. They will tolerate light shade for part of the day, but more sturdy compact plants can be expected in full sunlight. Height is generally from 16 to 20 inches tall, and they make good plantings in the foreground or middle sections of borders or beds. Seed is available in single or mixed colors, and come in single or double blossoms. A very nice salmon pink is Newport Pink. When plants are about 8 inches tall, sprinkle Sevin or Chlordane dust under the plants, as the sow bugs will hide underneath and chew them off at the base.
LUNARIA (Honesty or Money Plant): This is a charming plant to grow under deciduous trees, or in shady nooks. The plant will not grow well in full sun. It also prefers a slightly acid soil, so the addition of spaghnum peat moss is beneficial if your soil should be alkaline. Sow seed in July or August. Seedlings will appear in early October and stay green all winter. The orchid blooms appear at iris time, and make a pretty planting. These plants are prized for dried arrangements, as the flower stalks will produce flat discs, that after the outer covering is removed, will leave silver transparent discs, very pretty. The discs should not be removed until late summer.
SIBERIAN WALLFLOWER: This is an ideal plant for a neat edging, border, or even a rock garden. These, as other biennials, should be planted in July or August if you want them to bloom at iris time. In fact, they often start blooming with the dwarf and intermediate iris, and will bloom at least two months, even longer, if the spring is long. Colors are orange, yellow and apricot. The apricot one is not as heavy a bloomer. Height is only 6 to 10 inches all. These little charmers are very fragrant.
NEMOPHILA (Baby Blue Eyes): This pretty border plant thrives in partial shade or full shade -- will bloom in the sunlight, but will not last too long. Height is from 6 to 9 inches tall, and the very attractive foliage is simply covered with the one-inch single blue flower with a white center. Plant seed in July, August or September only. Again, this one is in bloom at iris time.
HARDY ANNUALS THAT BLOOM AT IRIS TIME
DRUMMONDI PHLOX: This one annual alone will give more bloom than any other annual I have ever grown. Once introduced into the garden and established, they will become a permanent part of your garden, and nature will scatter them throughout your plantings. Plant in July or August from seed. The small seedlings will come up in late September, and grow slowly all winter long. Bloom will begin before the iris bloom, and will be at peak during the iris season. There are several varieties available, from the star-shaped very dwarf Twinkles, to a regular dwarf and taller one to 20 inches. Colors are available in single or mixed colors. They may be transplanted early in spring to areas you wish them to perform. I like to group a dozen or so plants together in the foreground of iris. They will bloom for at least 3 months.
CHINESE FORGET-ME-NOTS: A very low growing blue flower for the border in a shady area, or part shade. Will grow to about 10 inches tall. May be planted from January through early March. These will perpetuate themselves, and will return each spring, once introduced into the garden.
CALIFORNIA POPPY: To get this to bloom at iris time, it must be sown from seed in the fall months. I prefer September or October. If area is kept reasonably moist, it will not freeze out, and makes a pretty border plant in the foreground of iris plantings. Mixed colors are available -- mostly in yellow and orange. Foliage is a light green, and very lacy and delicate in appearance.
PANSIES, VIOLAS, and JOHNNIE JUMP-UPS: These three flowers are all members of the same family, and are classed as hardy annuals. All bloom at iris time. These are best put out as bedding plants -- especially the violas and pansies. Johnnie Jump-Ups can be grown quite easily from seed sown in August or September. Areas where you plan to grow pansies and violas should be prepared in advance, and generous amounts of cattle manure, organic compost, or spaghnum peat moss worked into the area. Plants should be set out in the fall for best results. I prefer late November or early December. Water well after planting, and never allow them to dry out during the winter months. They will not freeze out. In fact, the cold weather will send the roots deep, and you will have stocky, compact plants, that will last weeks longer. They love a snow covering. Violas can be purchased in separate colors, if you wish to work out a color scheme. I personally like the Giant Swiss mixture -- really pretty colors. I use the small Johnnie Jump-Ups around a good many of my iris plantings, and grouped together, they pack a lot of color.
DIANTHUS (Pinks): These will sometimes live over the second year, but are best treated as hardy annuals. For bloom at iris time, seed should be planted the following summer. The small plants will not freeze out during the winter if kept moist. Small bedding plants are not too expensive, and to assure that yours will bloom at iris time, you may want to purchase plants, but do set them out early -- late March or very early April, as soon as hard freezes are past. They will take light freezes or frosts, even if they have been grown in a greenhouse. Try to get plants that have been grown in cold frames, and these will be completely hardy. I prefer the variety "Gaiety", which is a large single, and colors are distinct and very pretty. "Bravo" is an orange-red that is also pretty. Protect all Dianthus from the sow bug by sprinkling Sevin or Chlordane dust underneath.
PERENNIALS
PEONIES: Most peonies bloom at iris time. It takes the third or fourth year clumps to really put on big displays. Should some of you have this in mind, for a possible convention display, get with it in the fall four years prior to the convention. Peonies prefer fall planting. Choose an area away from large trees or hedges, and one that you will not want to disturb for years, as Peonies do not like to be disturbed once established. Plant shallow, with the tips covered with not more than 1-1/2 to 2 inches of soil. Use only 3 to 5 eye divisions to start your clump. Give them generous amounts of cattle manure, as Peonies are heavy feeders. Peonies are ideal as companion plants near iris plantings. Keep enough distance that the cattle manure would not get too close to the iris rhizomes.
COLUMBINES: These always bloom at iris time. Takes about three years to get dense plantings from seed, which should be planted in July or August. The small seedlings will come up in September, stay green all winter, and will bloom some the first year. Second year plants should give reasonably good bloom, and the third year the bloom will be terrific. Plants are available, and these should be put out in early March for best results. Columbines are a cool weather plant, and should be planted in shady locations. They will do well with morning sun, or on the east side of a house. Columbines prefer a slightly acid soil -- I use spaghnum peat moss in my plantings, as my soil is naturally alkaline. Be sure the drainage is good, or you will have troubles.
CERASTIUM (Snow-in-Summer): This is strictly a border plant, or is good in rock gardens. Growth habit is similar to the well-known creeping phlox. Foliage is an attractive grey, and is completely covered with the single, fragrant white flowers during iris season, and several weeks beyond. Seed is easily germinated if planted in July or August, and kept moist during this period. Give full sunlight for best results. After the plant is established, divisions may be taken and transplanted to different areas. Will perform well in any average garden soil.
PHLOX SUBULATA (Creeping Phlox): This is a well-known perennial, and is in bloom at iris time. Bloom begins at the same time as the little dwarf iris shows color. Colors are white, red, fuschia, and blue. Idea to border beds or walks. Does best in full sun. The best way to get this started is to call on a friend who has a large planting, and take up small divisions. It is also available in greenhouses; best time to plant is early April.
ANCHUSA: This is the big one - the variety that grows from 3-1/2 to 4 feet tall, and always steals the show -- even from the iris! I general use from 3 to 5 of these showy plants, mixed between the iris plantings, each spring. Generally, a mature plant will live from 5 to 6 years before it dies, but there are always small plants that appear from seed dropped from the parent plant. If you plan to grow this from seed, plant seed in July or August. The perennial Anchusa rarely blooms the first year if grown from seed. Color is about the brightest, deepest shade of blue I have ever seen. As the bloom stalks are tall and quite heavy, use a double ring plant support around the entire plant. Plant in full sunlight in any good garden soil. This is a perfect companion for irises.
PERENNIAL POPPY: These should be planted in fall only for best results. I have found the ideal location is one that gets morning sun only, and filtered sunlight during the heat of the day. My planting is near some iris, and shaded in the afternoon by a Tulip tree. (The irises are in full sun). Once a planting is established, put out a DO NOT DISTURB sign. These plants do not want to be crowded by other plants either. A deep organic soil is appreciated by the perennial poppy.
RANUNCLUS (Buttercup): This is the perennial form, not the bulb. There is also a perennial for used for ground cover that has a creeping habit, and very little bloom. The compact form blooms during iris time, and is completely covered with the yellow blooms for weeks, and during the entire blooming season or iris. Grows to about 20 inches tall. Full sunlight, with all types of soil. One of the easiest perennials of all to grow -- just be sure you get this one, and not the creeping form, unless you are looking for a ground cover.
BULBS
Unfortunately, most early spring flowering bulbs are gone by iris time, at least the tall bearded iris. The peony-flowered tulips -- the doubles -- are among the last of the tulips to bloom, and often these will still be in bloom at iris time. You can help this out, by holding back the bulbs until about December 15th. Keep bulbs in a cool place. I like to put mine down under the sink -- the area where the pipes are. This has been an ideal storage place for all bulbs for me. By late planting, I think you can be reasonably certain of having most of the late blooming varieties bloom at iris time. However, the second year they will do their thing, and bloom earlier, unless you lifted the bulbs. It is certainly worth a try, if you want tulips at that time, and will hold them back. Last year I had a dozen parrot tulips -- Texas Flame -- in bloom at iris time. I forgot them, and did not get them planted until December 20th. They were late beauties!
The large flowering Alliums are very showy, and these would all be in bloom at iris time. The smaller varieties are not very showy, and I do not give them space. Use in groupings of three -- and they stop traffic. Ones I particularly like are Giganteum, Karataviense, Aflatunense, and Albopolisum.
Biennial seed may be purchased at all times from Parks Seed Company, Greenwood, South Carolina.
I really believe that once you introduce some of these plants into your garden, you will wonder why you waited so long. In fact, this journey into experimenting with a few biennials and perennials just might develop a latent collecting instinct. By this time, the iris will have accepted the idea, and will be performing beautifully in their allotted space, and not mind at all. Really!
Do I grow iris? You bet! They rate at the top of the list as one of my favorite perennials. They have learned to co-exist with my other plants.
Every spring I explain to them, that if they stand straight, unfurl each little standard and fall just right, they will get to go to the show. Some do. Maybe they want to get away from those cotton-pickin' drummondi phlox surrounding them!